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You are here: Home / Garden / How to Grow Bell Peppers: Tips from a Master Gardener

How to Grow Bell Peppers: Tips from a Master Gardener

June 17, 2025 by Randy Schultz Leave a Comment

bell peppers growing in garden

Want to Learn How to Grow Bell Peppers? Here is Everything You Need to Know to Grow this Tasty Vegetable!

Bell peppers are one of the most satisfying warm-season vegetables to grow in the home garden. I’ve been an active gardener for many years, and I love to recommend growing bell peppers to new and experienced gardeners.

Bell peppers are right up there with tomatoes and zucchini when it comes to easy-to-grow veggies that produce lots of delicious homegrown produce.

You might want to harvest shiny green bells for a fajita night. Or perhaps you want to wait for those same peppers to ripen into reds, oranges, or yellows for a sweet snack. Few crops are as colorful—or as versatile as sweet peppers.

Here’s everything you need to know to grow your own bumper crop of bell peppers.

How to Grow Bell Peppers: Seed vs. Starter Plants

Starting from Seed:

If you like the challenge and control of growing your plants from the very beginning, starting bell peppers from seed is a great option. I begin my seeds indoors about 8-10 weeks before the last frost date. Bell pepper seeds take longer to germinate than many other vegetables—typically 10 to 14 days—and they require warmth. A heat mat helps maintain a soil temperature of around 80°F, which can greatly improve germination rates.

The advantage of starting from seed is variety. You’ll have access to a wide array of heirloom and hybrid peppers that garden centers just don’t carry. But the downside? It requires a time commitment and proper indoor growing conditions: heat, light, and patience. Young seedlings are sensitive, and you’ll need to “harden them off” by gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions. This requires at least a week before planting them outside.

Starting from Transplants:

For most home gardeners, buying small bell pepper plants from a local nursery is easier and more practical. These starter plants give you a solid head start on the growing season and reduce the risk of early setbacks.

Make sure to pick healthy plants with strong stems and no signs of yellowing or wilting. Resist the urge to buy plants with fruit already forming. Younger, more vigorous plants will outproduce in the long run.

bell pepper transplant in garden

Top Bell Pepper Varieties and Their Characteristics

There are dozens of bell pepper varieties, but these are a few of my tried-and-true favorites:

  1. California Wonder
    Classic heirloom—Large, blocky, thick-walled green peppers that ripen to red. Dependable producer.
    Days to harvest: 70–75
    Use: Stuffing, salads, sauté
  2. King of the North
    Short-season variety great for northern climates. Sweet, thick-walled peppers that ripen from green to red.
    Days to harvest: 63–70
    Use: Versatile; good for shorter summers
  3. Purple Beauty
    Deep purple fruit turns greenish red when fully ripe. Adds striking color to salads.
    Days to harvest: 70–75
    Use: Fresh eating, ornamental value
  4. Islander
    Starts lavender, matures through shades of yellow, orange, and red. Eye-catching and sweet.
    Days to harvest: 56–80 (depending on stage of color)
    Use: Fresh, grilled, multi-color dishes
  5. Lunchbox Mix
    These are mini bells, not full-sized, but I always include them because they’re extremely sweet and perfect for snacking.
    Days to harvest: 55–65
    Use: Fresh snacking, lunchbox favorite

Growing Conditions: What Bell Peppers Love

Bell peppers are a bit finicky about their environment, but once you understand their preferences, they’ll reward you with abundant harvests.

Sunlight: Full sun is essential—at least 6–8 hours per day. Less light means fewer and smaller fruits.

Soil: They thrive in well-draining, loamy soil rich in organic matter. I amend my soil with compost and aged manure before planting. A slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0–6.8) is ideal.

Temperature: Peppers love warmth but not extreme heat. Night temperatures should be consistently above 55°F before planting. Ideal daytime temps are 70–85°F. When temps soar above 90°F, plants may drop blossoms and stop setting fruit. Mulching and afternoon shade can help mitigate heat stress.

Spacing: Give each plant about 18–24 inches of space. Good air circulation reduces disease and helps with even fruit ripening.

Watering: Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Bell peppers are sensitive to both drought and overwatering. A deep watering once or twice a week is usually sufficient, especially if you cover the soil with mulch to retain moisture.

Feeding: Use a balanced fertilizer or a tomato/vegetable food with slightly higher phosphorus (the middle number in N-P-K) to encourage flowering and fruit set. Too much nitrogen encourages leafy growth at the expense of peppers.

young woman in garden

Growing Tips from the Field

  • Staking: Even bell peppers benefit from support. As the fruit matures, the weight can cause branches to break, especially in windy conditions. I cage or stake my plants early.
  • Pruning: I pinch off early flowers to help the plant focus on root development. Light pruning of inner foliage can improve airflow.
  • Companions: Basil, carrots, and onions grow well nearby. Avoid planting near fennel or kohlrabi.

Pests and Problems (and What to Do)

Bell peppers aren’t immune to garden pests and diseases, but most problems can be managed with attention and early action.

Common Pests:

  • Aphids: These tiny insects suck sap from leaves. I knock them off with a strong water spray or apply insecticidal soap.
  • Cutworms: These can sever young plants at the base. Use collars made from cardboard or plastic around the stems.
  • Spider Mites: Especially in hot, dry weather. Keep the area humid and hose down the undersides of leaves.
  • Pepper Maggots: Lay eggs in the fruit. Prevent with floating row covers and remove affected fruit promptly.

Diseases:

  • Bacterial Spot & Leaf Spot: Remove affected leaves and avoid overhead watering.
  • Anthracnose: Causes sunken, rotting spots on fruit. Keep the area clean and rotate crops.
  • Blossom End Rot: Not a disease but a calcium deficiency caused by irregular watering. Maintain even soil moisture.

Prevention Tips:

  • Rotate crops yearly to avoid soil-borne disease buildup.
  • Mulch to prevent soil splash and conserve moisture.
  • Water at the base, not on the leaves, to reduce fungal issues.

From Blossom to Harvest: How Long?

harvesting vegetables in a garden

Depending on the variety and conditions, most bell peppers mature in 60 to 90 days after transplanting. Green peppers are technically immature fruits and can be harvested sooner—often by 60–70 days—but if left on the plant, they’ll ripen to red, yellow, orange, or even purple (depending on the plant variety). Ripening adds sweetness and nutritional value but also extends the growing period.

I often stagger my harvests—some green for cooking, others left to ripen for fresh eating. Frequent harvesting encourages more fruit production.

What About Hot Peppers? Similar Needs, a Spicy Personality

If you’ve had success growing bell peppers—or even if you’re just getting started—you might be curious about hot peppers. The good news is that hot pepper plants thrive under nearly the same conditions as bell peppers. They love full sun, warm soil, consistent watering, and well-drained, fertile soil. You can grow them side by side in the garden without any trouble (although if you’re saving seeds, cross-pollination is something to be aware of).

But there are a few key differences to keep in mind. Hot peppers, particularly the super-hot varieties like Carolina Reapers or Ghost Peppers, tend to be more tolerant of heat and drought than bell peppers. In fact, a little stress—such as slightly less water—can sometimes intensify their heat level. They’re also often more disease-resistant and less prone to blossom end rot.

That said, hot peppers are usually slower to mature, especially the super-hots. While a sweet bell might be ready to pick in 70 days, a hot habanero could take 90–100 days or more from transplanting to ripe fruit. Also, because the fruits are generally smaller and lighter, hot pepper plants don’t need as much staking or support—though large harvests can still weigh down branches.

So, if you’re already growing bells, adding a few hot pepper plants is a great way to spice up your garden—and your kitchen. Just remember to wear gloves when handling the hotter varieties!

hot peppers ready for harvest

Final Thoughts on How to Grow Bell Peppers: Is It Worth It?

The short answer is “Yes!”

Growing bell peppers takes some effort, especially in cooler or shorter-season areas. But with the right preparation and attention to detail, it’s a great plant for a backyard garden—even for beginners. The key is consistency: consistent warmth, water, and observation.

And believe me, there’s nothing quite like biting into a juicy, homegrown pepper straight from the garden. The sweetness, crunch, and depth of flavor far surpass anything you’ll find at the store.

So, give bell peppers a try in your garden. Choose a couple of different varieties, pay close attention to their growing needs, and enjoy the rainbow of color and taste they’ll bring to your backyard and your table.

Happy growing!

Are tomato hornworms devouring your tomato plants? Here’s what to do!

tomato hornworm on a tomato plant

Filed Under: Garden, My Story Tagged With: backyard, bell, garden, green, grow, growing, insect, pepper, peppers, pests, red, sweet, tips, vegetable

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